Harvest Stories and Reports from El Dorado County Vineyard Owners

There’s a story that goes with every bushel of grapes harvested in El Dorado County.  The big story is that the grapes are wonderful this year, and members of the El Dorado Wine Grape Growers Association are counting their lucky stars.  When buyers pay up, they should be counting some good profits too.
 

Andy Standeven, who with wife Elizabeth Standeven, owns Shaker Ridge Vineyard, sent this recent harvest report and also a story that should help you understand a bit about the risk that family wine grape growers take every day.

Barbera harvest at Shaker Ridge

“On Wednesday, we picked 15 bins of beautiful-looking Barbera for 3 winery clients. All hands were on deck as we enlisted Elizabeth's mother to take our daughter to school, Elizabeth's father to drive a quad with bin trailer, and a retired neighbor to operate a forklift. Meanwhile, Elizabeth drove a tractor and Andy did fruit quality control and leaf removal, with 8 paid laborers picking grapes and dumping it into macro bins as fast as they could.

Barbera in bins

"Picking started at daybreak and continued in the hot sun, with few breaks, until 10 AM. Our first winery client's truck was loaded and drove off by 9:45 AM; meanwhile, we weighed fruit and hosed down bins and equipment until 1 PM when a second winery client picked up. We had arranged to haul fruit to the third winery, and our '89 Chevy pickup successfully delivered 2 bins over to that winery by 1 PM. But that would be the truck's last hurrah.

That dear old '89 Chevy pickup

"A couple hours later, on the return trip to the winery with the final bin, the truck was overheated by the side of the road with a broken water pump. It was over 2 miles and some 600 feet downhill from the vineyard in an area with no cell phone reception. As Andy started to jog home, a Good Samaritan neighbor who he had never met offered him a ride home. We called the client, and they agreed to send a truck for the last bin when they could.

"We received word that the winery's truck was on its way as we finished up a birthday dinner celebration for our daughter, who had had the misfortune of being born at harvest time 9 years earlier. As the sun's last rays faded, we could be seen pitch-forking half a ton of fruit into the client's truck by the side of the road. As exhausted as we were, the winery client had it worse, with a 45-minute drive ahead and crushing that would likely keep them busy until close to midnight. All in a day's work at harvest time...”

Shaker Ridge Vineyard is located in the El Dorado AVA on sloping, rocky clay loam soils at the 1,500 foot elevation.  Andy and Elizabeth farm three acres each of head-trained Barbera and Primitivo, and one acre of traditional port varietals featuring Touriga Nacional.  They manage their vineyard for low yield and high quality.

 

 

Harvest time at Mellowood

Linda Neal, owner of Mellowood Vineyard located in the Fair Play region of El Dorado County, sends this report:

“We are into the thrilling thick of harvest. The grapes are ripening quickly as men, women and equipment are being pushed to the limit to get the fruit in at the perfect moment.

"At Mellowood Vineyard a bit of Syrah has been picked for blush, while the remainder will be picked this upcoming week (anyone have a bin dumper for rent?).

"The Zinfandel will be right on the heels of the Syrah.

"Hold the rain until after please!”

Both Shaker Ridge and Mellowood are members of the El Dorado Wine Grape Growers Association

Early Harvesting Update from El Dorado County- Placerville area

Bob and Margot Scharpf of Quartz Hill Vineyard, El Dorado County, write:

 

"As most everyone knows, the harvest is early this year. I believe it is only the second time in 30 years that I have picked Sauvignon Blanc in August.

 

I also grow Pinotage,and it was picked on Aug. 28.

 

We are now into Merlot, and by mid September we may be picking Petit Syrah. "

 

Max Vineyard grapes at harvest

Richard Stading, Winemaker at Auriga Wine Cellars, writes:

 

"From our Max Vineyard, we've already brought in our Viognier, and the numbers are good: 26 Brix, Ph 3.30, T.A. .7, I’ll probably use this as a blending agent for a future Syrah. 

 

Quality is high, though the crop load is less than last year.

 

Zin and Syrah will follow in my harvest calendar, then Barbera, and usually Sangiovese last."  

 

 

 

 

 

Both Quartz Hill Vineyard and Max Vineyard/Auriga are members of the El Dorado Wine Grape Growers Association.

 

 

Harvest Report from Walker Vineyard, El Dorado County

Chardonnay just harvested
at Walker Vineyards

Walker Vineyard is a thirty-five year old, twenty-one acre vineyard in El Dorado County.  Ann Walker Johnson sends this report:

 

“We have harvested all of our Chardonnay (4 acres) with an approximate yield of 4 tons per acre. We are at 2100 feet elevation and the brix this year averaged about 26. The quality was great... we escaped sunburn! These are old vines (40 years) planted on their own root on a hillside where we enjoy the view of Pyramid Peak to one side and Mt. Diablo from the opposite side of the block.

“We do a night harvest for one of our customers. My dad and I hit the road in our Peterbilt after a night of picking and headed to Petaluma for the delivery. Something I'll always remember is my dad telling me parrot jokes to pass the time and keep me alert while driving!! Evidently he had a joke session with Fred Rouse of EID (he does our water probe reads) earlier in the week. Thanks Fred for the jokes.... nothing like contemplating a parrot going into a bar when you are making a delivery in the wee hours of the morning!

“Next to come off is our Merlot and the start of our Zinfandel. Shortly followed by some Barbera.”

 

 More about Walker Wineyard

Walker Vineyard is a thirty-five year old, twenty-one acre vineyard situated above the Cosumnes River Canyon at 2,100 feet elevation. Premium Zinfandel, Chardonnay, Petite Sirah, Merlot and Barbera are grown in well-drained granitic soils in the Oak Hill Agricultural District.  Many award winning wines are made from Walker Vineyard grapes.  The vineyard is a member of the El Dorado Wine Grape Growers Association.

 

www.walkervineyard.com

The vineyard is located in El Dorado County at

6060 Oak Hill Road
Placerville CA 95667

Little Smoke Gettin’ in El Dorado Vineyard Owners’ Eyes… or Their Grapes

Photo courtesy
myyosemite.com

Worried about buying or using grapes that might have smoke taint from the Rim Fire?   El Dorado grapes don’t seem to be affected.

Bob Clarke, whose 12-acre Latrobe Vineyards is 15 miles SW of Placerville,  notes:  “We are not having any problem with smoke in the Latrobe area. Our only bad day was on Tuesday, otherwise we have had very little smoke. We finished harvest of our Sauvignon Blanc on Monday so that is past us. Zinfandel to go yet but we should have no problem with smoke affecting our Zinfandel.”

Primitivo at Shaker Ridge

Elizabeth Standeven of Shaker Ridge Vineyard, located in the town of El Dorado which is 4 miles SW of Placerville (or 38 miles NE of Sacramento),  says, “I am hopeful that the smoke will not be enough to taint our wines. It has been a heavy lingering blanket some days, but most days it has blown off fairly quickly in the day. Based on our experience in the past with fires closer to us than the Rim Fire I am not expecting any problems.”  Shaker Ridge grows Barbera, Primitivo, Tempranillo, Touriga Nacional,  and Tinta Cao.

Greg Baiocchi of Baiocchi Family Vineyards, located in the Fair Play region of southern El Dorado County, declares, “We really have nothing to worry about at this point as the amount of hours where smoke to grape skin contact has occurred thus far has been minimal in El Dorado County.” Baiocchi Family Vineyards grows Tempranillo, Mourvedre, Syrah and Grenache.

Appellation El Dorado – Family Grape Growers Feature More Offerings to Consumers and Trade at 2013 Family Winemakers of California Tasting

There it was, proudly denominated in the tasting program, “Appellation: El Dorado”.  More wineries than ever before featured wines made from El Dorado grapes. With a tradition of families involved in El Dorado wine grape growing (see recent blogposts on this topic),   it just seems right that they’d be pouring their wines at the Family Winemakers of California tasting.  Among the El Dorado wine grape growers/winemakers who featured their wines were  Auriga Wine Cellars, Lava Cap Winery, and Madroña Vineyards.

And then there were the sleepers.  Taste taste taste and then I’d make an inquiry:  “Did you use any El Dorado grapes to make this wine?”    The El Dorado sense of place is distinct, flavorful and unmistakable.  Kudos to the winemakers at  Frog’sTooth Vineyards, and Urban Legend Cellars, among others.

FEATURED WINES from El Dorado Grapes

 

Diane Stading, Auriga

Diane Stading of Auriga Wine Cellars poured their 2010 Zinfandel among other wines.  This wine, made from grapes grown on 35 year old vines on the ridge of the Sumu Kaw Vineyard near Placerville, features an intense fruitiness.  The Stadings work closely with the Sumu Kaw Vineyard manager, Diane noted.   David and Sheila Bush, also El Dorado WineGrape Growers Association members, own this well-known vineyard.   The Auriga 2010 Zinfandel is $24 the bottle.

 

Charlie Jones, LavaCap

 

Charlie Jones of Lava Cap found that their Petite Syrah and Grenache were popular with tasters.

Richard and Paul Bush,
Madrona

Among the Madroña wines poured by Paul and Richard Bush was the 2012 Riesling “Hillside Collection”.  A delicious wine, just introduced.  At $14 a bottle, it was a hit with the crowd.

 

Larry Aderman and taster,
Frog's Tooth

Larry Aderman of Frog’s Tooth Vineyards, Murphys, CA, poured the 2010 Zinfandel made from grapes sourced from El Dorado’s Gold Hill Vineyards.  $26/bottle.   He also sources grapes for his Barbera from Gold Hill Vineyards…but this is sold out. “I like the grapes from El Dorado,” Aderman said.  “The volcanic component of the soil gives them a dramatic flavor.”

Marilee Shaffer,
Urban Legend Winery

Marilee Shaffer of Urban Legend Winery poured a 2010 Dolcetto made with grapes from the LBS Ranch/Lava Cap vineyards.  The first Urban Legend Dolcetto made with El Dorado grapes was the 2009 vintage.  This 2010 Dolcetto, of which 125 cases were produced,  sells at $25 a bottle. 

The Family Winemakers of California annual tasting in San Francisco is a first-class tasting event, with many good contacts made and old friends greeted.  I even saw a bottle of Lava Cap Barbera pass over the table en route to a late summer Taste-Off at the Wine Coop with members of the Bay Area Wine Society.  I bet they will be thrilled. 

p.s.  I particularly enjoyed the quip shared with me by an out-of-county winemaker who employs a harp player for events.  Said harpist has a trucker husband who hauls grapes during crush.  The trucker said: ”There’s a lot of El Dorado Old Vine Zinfandel that turns into Napa Old Vine Zinfandel as soon as it crosses the county line.”  Sounds like magic to me!

Family Grape Growers Tell What Family Enterprises Mean to Them: Part Two

It's that time in San Francisco, the weekend of the important Family Winemaker’s tasting.  Family Winemakers, Family Grape Growers...there is a kindred spirit here.  We asked El Dorado Wine Grape Growers Association members “What’s a family enterprise mean to you?”.  Some of the key words from the replies that keep coming in:  risk, reward, daily involvement, soul, vulnerability, thrill, self-reliance.

Linda Neal of Mellowood Vineyard bought 25 acres in the Fair Play area of El Dorado County in 2000 and promptly proceeded to carve out 9 acres and in 2002 planted Zinfandel and Syrah.  The first wines were bottled in 2008.  Her mission at Mellowood is to create delicious wines that would bring you to the incredible Sierra Foothills with each sip.

Linda Neal in vineyard
in winter

"When I think of a family enterprise, it is a business where only the money of the family is at risk and they take an active role in the day to day operations of the business," said Linda.

"Why am I a farmer? I don’t think one can rationalize being a farmer. There is just something in your soul that has drawn you to the earth. The risks are very tangible, your vulnerability to the market, weather, the equipment, labor shortages and government regulation are high. You can lose everything you have worked for in the blink of an eye. 

The vineyard
in spring

"The rewards are less tangible, feelings that range from the quiet peace of communing with nature on a beautiful spring day, when you are suckering alone, to the pride you feel walking through the vineyard in late harvest as the leaves begin to turn and you start sampling grapes to time harvest, to the thrill of the working with a crew at harvest as they run and sing while working a fever pitch to get the grapes in. And yes, even the juice of fear is part of the draw, like drawing nearer to the cliff edge as each of the dangers approaches and is battled. 



"No sane person does it," she said.

HER PATH TO FAMILY FARMING/GRAPE-GROWING

"I started on the path to becoming a farmer in High School, when I enrolled in FFA and Ag Classes, because it looked like fun. FFA changed my life and I knew that somehow I must pursue a career in agriculture. 

While still in college, I got my PCA license. Right out of school I got a job managing a retail store of ag products, then I worked for an almond grower/processor in Madera. I became the northern California sales representative for Rhone Poulenc, an international manufacturer of Ag Chemicals. 

"I had a vineyard management company in the Napa Valley for over 20 years, during which time I purchased and developed a vineyard in Oakville and later another in Fair Play. I held a Farm Labor Contractor’s License. At the time I left vineyard management, I ran a crew of 100 over 1000 acres. 

"I now only farm for myself and produce wines from both the Tierra Roja Vineyard in Oakville, Napa Valley and the Mellowood Vineyard in Fair Play, El Dorado."

Harvest at Mellowood Vineyard! 
Making it all worthwhile

Family Grape Growers Speak Out on What Family Enterprises Mean to Them: Part One

In a run-up to the important FamilyWinemaker’s tasting this next weekend in San Francisco, we asked El Dorado Wine Grape Growers Association members “What’s a family enterprise mean to you?”.  Some of the key words from the first replies:  family, work ethic, generations, vision, standing together, quality goals.

Here’s one detailed reply from Ann Walker Johnson of Walker Vineyards, which planted grapevines in 1968 on their one-hundred year old family farm situated above the Cosumnes River at 2100’ elevation.  Today they grow Zinfandel, Chardonnay, Barbera, Petite Sirah and Merlot on 21 acres in El Dorado’s Oak Hill Agricultural District.

Old Barn on the Ranch

“A family enterprise means uniting behind a shared vision and goal. Growing up on a ranch that has been in the family for over 100 years, we have a long standing tradition of working the land.

Zinfandel

“I watched my mom and dad begin their vineyard in the early 1970's and as a member of the family I was expected to contribute to the process. (As the youngest of four daughters, that initially meant carrying a water jug until I was old enough to graduate to disbudding vines and helping with portable irrigation pipe.) We all worked together to take care of the vines.

Ann Walker Johnson
at Harvest

"Now, some 40 years later I'm back on the ranch sharing that vision again. Why come back? For me it was an opportunity to really get to know my dad on a different level. I've learned a tremendous amount about viticulture from him ... but I have also shared many moments (sometimes humorous, sometimes not) from repairing the 6" pipeline to learning exactly which fittings you need to lubricate on the mower.



Sorting out grow tubes

“I also have my own family working with me. Is it my 16 year old daughter's first choice to be up at 6:00 AM the one day of week she could actually sleep in since high school is back in session? No! But, she does understand that a family pulls together when work needs to get done and I think imparting a sound work ethic is one of the best things we can do for our kids.



Son Josh and friend
smile after a long day
of planting vines

“So a family enterprise means just that... family. Working together through the good times and the stressful times and standing together behind a goal, which for us is to grow the highest quality wine grapes we can.”